We posted last month about a great tasting party
that the folks at Division Brewing invited us to. We were blown away by the
great beers that owner/brewers Wade Wadlington and Sean Cooley had produced, so
we sat down with them to learn a little more about Arlington’s first
locally-owned craft brewery, opening this fall.
How did you first become involved with brewing?
Wade: I began
appreciating import beers in the early nineties. There were not many craft
breweries around or readily available, so the decision to brew my own was
pretty natural. My first Texas craft beers were Celis White & Grand Cru,
which became available around 1994 or so.
I continued to enjoy and search for new imports and craft beer until I
had tried every single one available. Then in 1999, I went to Homebrew
Headquarters (which was in Arlington at the time) and brewed with the owner
right out on the sidewalk. It was your
basic kit beer, but the experience of brewing a beer for the first time was
magic to me. That first batch was not
that great, so I brewed again and again…and again. Always asking myself, “What can I do right
this time that I did wrong before?”
This was before the home brewing explosion, so reference material was
basically the Papazian book, which is still a viable resource today. It’s so much easier these days to just pop on
the internet and google information.
Sean: Early on, it was
country wines, odd and often foraged ingredients for the beer. I was pretty
biased against liquid malt extract, maybe unfairly, so I used dry malt extract
for the base and added things like dandelions and wild herbs to the beer in
mainly 2 gallon batches. I slowly took on the intimidating task of learning
all-grain. A lot of it came down to distribution issues. You hear about a lot
of great beers out there but you can’t get them, or you don’t want to pay for
them. Also that do-it-yourself spirit that both Wade and I have and a lot of
homebrewers have.
W: It’s much more
satisfying to provide the solution than to buy it.
Did you brew many different styles, or did you
repeat a few recipes to “tune them in?”
W: I tried a few
different things early on, and it was just craziness, like my third batch of
beer was an imperial cherry stout. But then after that I was pretty focused on
brewing beer that I like to drink. At that time I was moving from European
hoppy pilsners to IPAs that were starting to show up here. So it was finding
something in between that I was challenging myself to do. As the craft beer
scene started growing, and more choices became available, it pushed me to make
better IPAs and questioning is this right, is this what I want it to taste
like? What it comes down to is you just have to brew your ass off. Once you get
the process down, the freshness itself becomes a dominant factor.
S: Before opening up
a brewery became possible, I didn’t really brew anything twice. Pretty much the
same styles that I brew now, I’ve always been brewing. I can’t say my tastes
have changed very much: IPA’s, Saisons, sours. And I’ve always done a few dark
styles like porters and stouts. But I would change up the recipe each time. I
would do different things with each brew. One thing about brewing: recipe
formulation is important, but knowing your process is more important. I think I
learned more about brewing not by brewing the same recipe over and over and
over again, but just dialing my process in each time.
What was the most significant improvement to
your homebrew setup?
W: Whirlpool was one
of the things that for me was a game changer. I brew a lot of IPA’s and hoppy
beers, and I discovered the importance of it with stirring. I’d get distracted
with other people here during the brew session, and notice that something was
lacking in the hop character, and it was not stirring enough to get more hops
utilization. I bought our new equipment (Stout Tanks & Kettles) so that it had the whirlpool
feature, and it’s awesome. It leaves a cone in the center once the wort is
drained off that’s just huge. Whirlpooling I think is a missed opportunity with
a lot of homebrewers. They get in the habit of set it and forget it, and I
think they’re missing out, especially with late hop additions.
S: Yeast management
was one of the biggest ones for me. Temperature control has been good, but
knowing your yeast and having an idea for what expression you want to get out
of it is important. Not just pitching a yeast because it’s what the recipe says
to do, but what do you want out of that yeast and what can you do with it in
order to get that expression out of it, whether it’s a clean profile or fruity
or funky.
What was your favorite homebrewing experience
(competition, party, brewday, etc.)?
S: We’re in them, I
think.
W: Livin’ the dream
of it. I think most of ours have been the sharing of the finished product. I’ve
gotten to where the brew day for me, I like it to be peaceful with nobody
around. And then I like to open the doors once everything’s done and then let
people try it.
S: Yeah, these tasting
events with people have been great.
What made you decide to consider professional
brewing?
W: Seeing 300 or 400
people drinking locally made beer at the breweries. I really enjoy the beer
making process but I think the decision to go ahead and do it professionally
had a lot to do with the success of the new local breweries and the large
amount of people that were honestly enjoying craft beer. I have a product that
I’m proud of and I just want to share it with a larger group of people. Being a
craft beer lover for a long time in DFW area, there were places like Copper
Tank, Yegua Creek, Rock Bottom, and 2-Row Brewery. They were places where you’d
go in and have a beer or sit down at the brewpub and enjoy a meal. Those places have come and gone and I never
saw the enthusiasm or numbers of people coming out to enjoy craft beer until
recently. It’s fantastic!
S: Wade had this in
the back of his mind before I even met him, and it may not have been very long
once I knew you, but you seemed like a determined person, and this seemed like
something you wanted to do. I decided it doesn’t matter what it is, I want to
be a part of that. If it was cleaning kegs or whatever, I wanted to do it.
W: A lot of good
brewers are good cooks, and they really enjoy all the little preparations, all
the little facets. We were both cooking a long time before we started brewing.
It’s just the handling the raw product and turning it into something special.
It’s a good feeling.
Were there any other commercial breweries that
inspired you to start your own?
W: The ones that have
inspired me are the west coast places. After reading for years about Pliny the
Elder, and going out there and seeing it first hand, you’re looking at what
they’re doing behind the scenes. There’s
a passion and attention to detail that really makes Russian River Brewing and a
few others out there stand out. Also in
Europe, Ayinger Brewery was a big inspiration. I’ve always respected them.
Their Celebrator Doppelbock and wheat beers are awesome, some of the best available.
And if you research their past, they have their own farms and used to grow
everything on their estate. Not many people do that, or can do that. Certainly
Rogue is getting there with Rogue Farms, but it’s rare the way Ayinger has done
it.
S: He came back from California with
Russian River’s Sanctification, and I just so happened to have 2 gallons of a
saison that I split into 1 gallon each, so I pitched the dregs, and it kinda
became our first sour. I mean I had no idea what I was doing, I was just
tipping some bugs into a beer, you know. Jester King has been an inspiration
for me, and also a frustration for me because they’ve done so many things with
their beer. I’ll have an idea and want to do this with my beer, and I’ll look
up if anyone has done it, and of course Jester King has. Like beets. I thought
has anyone done beets in beer, and sure enough Hibernal Dichotomous is this
great seller. They’ve just done it all, and they’re great. They really inspire
me.
What is your idea of a hypothetical “perfect
beer?”
W: It depends on the
setting, but 90% of the time it’s going to be a 9.0 (ABV) double IPA that is
well balanced. I can appreciate every other style of beer just about, but that’s
my go-to. I do love a good European, maybe British style ale too. I love stuff
on cask, and I want to get something on cask at JR Bentley’s, the newly re-opened British pub in downtown Arlington. We’d love to do something with
those guys.
S: It really depends.
I have a lot of favorite beers. You can ask me again in the middle of winter,
but especially now drinkability is really high on the priority list. I find
myself dropping my kegerator down like 10 degrees in the summer because I want
something that’s cold and refreshing. I love saisons, but I really do love
hoppy beers, and I prefer something that’s pretty dry, personally.
To keep the interview going, we cracked a Flanders Red, just the base style
without any finishing fruit. Delicious, crisp, not overwhelmingly sour,
approachable, great malt presence with some leathery, brett character that will
continue to develop in the bottle.
You will have a dedicated sour program at
Division. Will there be any particular sour style that you focus on, or will
you have a variety?
S: We’ll be brewing
dark, golden, amber, but as far as what we do with them like fruits, as long as
we have a decent supply of fresh ingredients it’s wide open. Sours are becoming
a real big deal in America lately, and there’s been a lot of bleed over from
the culinary world. I really like that, but then deep down what I really enjoy
is simplicity and expression of ingredients at their best. If you look at a
recipe and there’s a hundred ingredients, you can get lost in that. Sometimes,
the best things can be simple. If it’s brewing with fruit in a sour beer, it’s
using fresh fruit that’s in season.
W: As much as I like
a really good peach, just ripe and ready to eat, I know it’s going to be that
good or better in the beer. I wouldn’t mind if we just keep throwing out new
ones all the time. We know people will want some standards or go-to’s like
Franken Froth, RosaLee, Xmas Morning or Ben Stout. But when we’re playing with
the freshest ingredients we can get a hold of, it’s going to be great. Like
wholesale hops, too, not just fruit. We’d like to get some great rare or
experimental hops like we did with some very fresh Galaxy we just received. The
orders flew in, and we bought as much as we could, and they were sold out in
like 15 minutes. So we’re going to brew with these hops in a few weeks and
it’ll be as fresh as possible.
Sean’s bio on the Division website says he likes
to preserve and/or ferment foods. What was the best aged food you’ve ever made?
Weirdest?
S: Cheese is one of
those things we take for granted how weird it is. When you see a whole wheel of
cheese and the rind and everything, it’s… just weird man. It tastes great and
everything, but it just weirds me out a little. Whenever it was cool outside
we’d stick sausages on our back porch and dry them out, and that was pretty
crazy, but it was fun to do and it turned out good. I’m pretty lucky I didn’t
get botulism or anything. We cured some pork loins too. The one thing I do on a
regular basis is sourdough bread baking. That’s something that I really take
time aside to do. Starting a brewery is pretty all-encompassing, but I think
I’ll always make time to bake sourdough. That was the first thing my wife
and I did the first week after our honeymoon. It became our daily bread, and it
symbolized more than just food on the table.
What advice would you give the average beer
drinker in order to convince them to try sour beer for the first time?
S: The one thing I’ve
used that I heard from Jay Goodwin at the Rare Barrel was the three sip rule.
The first sip is going to shock your palate because it’s quite different, and
the second sip kind of lets your palate acclimate. Hopefully by the third, you’re
good to go. You’ve made up your mind. Some say they’re not for everyone, but I
think they are.
W: For a lot of
people, the name sour kind of hurts the genre. You say sour, and they think
it’s gone bad or something. There’s some negative connotation implied by the
sour label. That’s not the case at all. I find them refreshing and complex…the
kind of beer that is contemplative; you pour, sit and think about it.
S: A lot of times
people are basing the credentials on pH or how sour is it. I’m definitely proud
of the sour beers that I brew and the complexities in them like brett
character. Yeah, I want it to be drinkable and thirst quenching for the Texan
drinker, but you let them warm up a little bit and there are some complexities
for the contemplative drinker. There’s something for everyone I think.
Do you see Division growing into a large
operation like Stone or Dog Fish Head, or would you rather stay local?
W: We really like the
idea of being small and creating an atmosphere that draws people to the brewery.
I sometimes feel that the larger production facilities that churn out large
amounts of beer, good beer mind you, somehow lessens the human aspect of
brewing. For me, it’s always been about the people – the brewers, the servers,
the customers, everyone should feel connected to the brewery through the beer.
It would be fun to have a large vibrant company with lots of employees making
great beer on a larger scale, but we’re going to let the beer speak for itself
and let any expansion happen naturally.
Where will craft beer fans be able to find your
beer?
W: The main idea has
always been to get people to come to the brewery. We will have a tasting room
onsite with hours TBD, but initially we want folks coming out to the tours on
Saturday afternoons 2-6pm to learn about us and try our beers. We will
eventually have tasting room hours, likely Thursday and Friday evenings. We
will also have to-go sales, so folks can grab bottles, growlers and even whole
kegs to take home. We want to be able to sell the beer we send out, too. If
something isn’t selling, then we’ll pull it once the freshness isn’t there
anymore. If and when we go outside of Arlington, it’ll be places that respect
the beer. But first and foremost, it’s Arlington. It’s our beer.
Downtown Arlington is a great place to have fun
and a good beer or two. Between craft beer bars, music venues, events hosted by
the City of Arlington, and great restaurants, do you see Division becoming a
community presence in Downtown Arlington?
W: Absolutely. The
City of Arlington does a tremendous job with all of its great year round events
and festivals, especially the concert series at the Levitt Pavilion. The City
has been great throughout the whole approval and building process, and the
support they are showing us is very encouraging. Throughout the process of
opening the brewery, we’ve gotten to know a lot of the businesses downtown, and
it’s very much a community that we are excited to join, and I think they’re
excited to see us coming onto the scene. Groups like the Rotary Club and the
Maverick Rugby Club have reached out to us, and we’re very fortunate to be
joining that great atmosphere. We’ve lived in Arlington for a long, long time,
and we feel that a lot of people in the Metroplex and especially Arlington have
been waiting for a small, locally-owned, hometown brewery to open mid-cities
for a while. We can’t wait.
Neither can we! You can check out Division Brewing's website, facebook, and twitter @DivisionBrewing for the latest on this great new craft brewery. Make sure to give them some love, and get on the mailing list for Division news and events.
A sincere thank you to Wade, Sean, Tammy, and everyone at Division for allowing us beer nerds to come into your home and talk about brewing. You guys are rockstars!