When I'm not homebrewing beer or blogging about it, I work in Keller, Texas. Last year about this time, Keller was blessed with its first craft brewery, Shannon Brewing Company. Located a whopping 1/4 mile from my office, I decided to head over to the brewery, grab a pint of dry-hopped Irish Red on nitro, and talk with founder Shannon Carter.
What was your career before brewing?
I was in brand strategy
and brand design. I did brand and product development for companies like Whole
Foods Market, USAA, Fiesta Bowl and several others. That experience really
helped me develop the brewery’s product line and the type of experience we want
people to have here.
How did you first become involved with brewing?
Homebrewing, like
a lot of other brewers. I played soccer all my life, and I played for a team in
St. Louis after playing in college. One of our sponsors was a homebrew supply,
and they brought over a very basic extract kit. Coach asked if anyone wanted to
take a run at it, so me and a buddy said we’d try it out. So that was about 30
years ago. It’s a different world now man. We had no internet to look stuff up
on, we had no brewers to call on. We were just makin’ stuff up as we went.
“What style is
this?”
“I don’t know.
What does it say on the box?”
“It’s a brown.”
“What’s a brown?”
“No idea. Let’s
make it!”
Did you brew many different styles, or did you repeat a few recipes to “tune them in?”
They would give
us a kit a week, so we were brewing new things every week. We would bottle at
first and then we started going to kegs pretty quickly because they traveled
easily. We kind of got this reputation for a soccer team that would bring beer
to every game. It was fun. Just all over the map. At that point in my life,
beer was beer was beer. Playing in St. Louis, guess what we drank? Budweiser,
all the time, just flowing through the streets. And so all of a sudden this
world opens up to you of all these different styles of beers. So it was kind of
a blessing, and it was my introduction to different beers. That was really the
start of it, realizing beer wasn’t a product. It was an entire category. And
it’s funny, I still run into people now that when you say beer, they still
think BMC (Bud, Miller, Coors) is beer. No, it’s a really narrow product
segment, albeit really successful. Can’t knock a success, but it’s a really
narrow product segment of this HUGE category.
Just a leaf on the tree. So what would you say was your significant improvement in homebrewing, whether it’s technique, equipment, etc.?
Over the years
you brew a lot of beer. Early in my homebrewing days, I was like a lot of
homebrewers in that I’d start brewing, and soon after we’d start drinking. It
was just fun, and it became a social event. Even guys who didn’t like brewing
would just come over and hang, and talk and everything, and as a consequence,
we didn’t take great notes. People would go, “Man, that pale ale you brewed was
fantastic!” and I’d say, “Yeah it really was. I wonder what I did there…” And
so you kind of get to practice, but don’t get any better because you’re not
paying attention. It wasn’t until I really started taking diligent notes, and I
know some homebrewers are going to hate hearing this, but I stopped drinking
during brew day, that I got really good at brewing. Because when you’re
drinking on brew day, you’re thinking ‘eh, I’m not going to take that gravity
reading, I’m tired, I’m not going to clean up now, maybe tomorrow, or a week
from now.’ You’re not paying attention so you don’t learn anything new.
Where you ever in any homebrew clubs, outside of the soccer team?
No, I looked at
joining a club when I moved here to DFW, but I was doing this, I was working,
and trying to get the brewery off the ground and just didn’t have a lot of
time. Plus, I was already brewing and doing this recipe development, so joining
a club would have just been too much. I wanted to join a club. I think it’s a
great thing. The camaraderie that’s there, you learn so much from your fellow
brewers, and you get to share. Had I had more time, I think it would have been
fun.
So when did you start to narrow down your styles? Are a lot of your commercial beers similar to the recipes you brewed as a homebrewer?
About 8 years ago
I got really, really serious about this, and I started doing recipe development
the same way we do product development professionally. We’d get the product
about where we wanted it and do some variations on the theme, all presentable
and good variations that maybe you can’t figure out the difference. We’d do
various blind taste testing, usually A/B testing and we would let the data take
our good product and hopefully make it great. Or certainly a higher percentage
of a sample would enjoy it. I’m not so arrogant as to think that what I think
is the best beer is the best beer. I would much rather take what I feel is the
best beer, put it up against other things that I think are equally as good and
let the data show what really is the best. I developed several recipes of the
recipes we brew and sell today that way. Our Irish red, our IPA, the stout,
& the blonde were all developed that way.
Now our
seasonals, we don’t develop that way. After you brew long enough, you get a
pretty good feeling for how the beer is going to turn out. By the grain load,
the hop load, boil times, alpha acids. There’s a lot of calculations you do,
plus we use several different tools to help us design one-offs and seasonals.
We won’t do A/B testing for those, we’ll just hop right into a 20 or 40 barrel
batch and just go for it. Like the bohemian lager we have right now. And the
next time we do that, will I tweak it a little bit? Maybe. But it means that
we’ve taken meticulous notes pre-brew, during the brew, during fermentation,
during packaging, and then tasting notes, all of which are archived for the
future for us to pull them back out when it’s time to do this beer again. You
can’t leave anything to memory because guess what, you’ve probably had a beer
since then.
What made you decide to consider professional brewing?
What made you decide to consider professional brewing?
The thing that
was instrumental in launching Shannon and really why I started to do it was my
grandfather. He was a brewer in Ireland and he had some notes on a brewhouse
that he built. My dad gave me these notes because he knew I was interested in
brewing, and at the time I thought, ‘yeah, yeah, fascinating’ and kind of
locked them away. When I started getting interested in doing this for a living,
I pulled those back out and it was almost an epiphany. I was reading about how
he built a cart and track and he would either move the fire under the liquid,
or move the kettle over the fire. It was unclear exactly what he was doing,
because he was saying what he was building and not what he was using it for.
And I looked at it and figured out he’s doing a stepped temperature mash. So I
thought, ‘That’s cool. Does anybody do a stepped temperature mash with fire?’ I
started doing research and everybody would say, “Oh good God, you wouldn’t want
to do that. That’s a terrible idea. You’ll scorch the wort under the false
bottom.” But I thought to myself, ‘Yeah, well… how did they do it then?’
So I
read his notes and built a couple of systems off of them, and I actually tried
to build one exactly off his notes. It was cool, and it worked out okay, but
the false bottom was made of birch strips in a basket weave pattern, and it
worked! It just tasted terrible. It was awful. It may have been the wrong kind
of birch, or I didn’t cure it right. He wasn’t super clear on that, he just
said to use birch. It was probably sap or something. I could have chased down
that path but I decided to just use a traditional false bottom. I don’t have to
be THAT authentic. So I started experimenting and found that I could actually do the stepped temperature mash with fire. It’s a huge timing process you have to hit, and we found it. Our actual commercial brewhouse is just a scaled up version of this homebrew setup I built, custom engineered and custom built system. It’s a fire brewed process, and that’s why each bottle and can says ‘Fire Brewed Irish Ales.’
Shannon still uses the 55gal homebrew setup for pilot batches |
I took
inspiration from a lot of European breweries. I started exploring different
beers of the UK like Boddington’s, I loved Bass, loved Guinness, Harp lager. I
really developed a love of English, Scottish, and Irish ales and lagers. I
certainly liked German and Czech beers, too, but there’s something about
Western Europe that I’m just drawn to. It’s homeland for me. Here in the States
I drew a real interest in Sam Adams early on. They were kind of the jumping off
point for American brewers at that time. I admire Deschutes, New Belgium, and Sierra Nevada
is a great brewery with a great product. Although I really like European beer,
I certainly dig west coast IPA’s. Everyone was doing west coast IPA’s and I
didn’t want to be just another flash in the pan, so I figured we needed to
remain true to where all this started for us. And for us it was Irish Ales. We
go beyond that, we push some of the Irish influence into an Americanized brew.
For instance, the red is really an Irish red, but then we kind of hop it up a
little bit. Everything really takes its influence from the UK. We let it be an
influence rather than a guiding principle. Some we just want to knock out of
the park with true Irish style though, like our Cream Ale. It’s a true Irish Cream
Ale, brewed the way Kilkenny used to brew it in Ireland with a dual
fermentation: ale fermentation and then a lager fermentation.
How has the Keller community responded to you in your first year?
Oh man, Keller
has been great. We couldn’t have better community support. From the local
government all the way down to the people of Keller. They’ve embraced us, we’ve
embraced them, and it’s been a really nice fit for us here. There’s a guy Mike
that lives right behind us. We had to tear down part of the fence during our
construction process, and at that same time we were watching him put in a gate
in his backyard across the drainage ditch from us and I asked him, “Hey Mike,
what are you doing?” He said, “This is my way to the brewery! Don’t you put
that gate back up!” So he just walks over across the ravine to come to the
brewery. That’s how it’s been for us.
You
are hosting a homebrew competition in November called Operation Bravo. Can you
tell me what it’s all about?
It’s a homebrew
competition that benefits veterans, and the judges are going to be veterans as
well. It will be on November 7th, right here at the brewery, and we’re
sponsoring along with Homebrew for Heroes, T&P Tavern, Texas Brewing and some Keller
staples: DeVivo Brothers and Hook & Ladder Pizza. There
will be an award for crowd favorite, and we’ll take that recipe and make it a
homebrew kit “Picked By Heroes” available nationwide. The big winner of the
contest, we’ll get to do a Pro-Am with them. It should be pretty fun.
Your
beer garden features several vines of hops. What variety are they, and how have
they fared in the Texas heat?
Texas-grown Cascade hops border
the beer garden
the beer garden
Well, they’ve
been just beat up by the sun. But it’s all Cascade. I think a lot of them will
survive and come back next year, and we’re going to put a roof over the beer
garden, so all of that will help. They just need a ton of water. Every day. A
lot of resources say they love full sun, but I think it’s a different sun over
Texas than the Pacific Northwest where they’re mostly grown. I used to grow
them quite a bit in Austin, and they grew really well. Cascade grew the best down there,
so that’s why we invested in it up here.
How long have y’all been in cans?
Just here in the
last month or so. I’m excited about it. I’ve been talking to a lot of other DFW
brewers that are canning now and everybody loves it. It’s just better for the
beer. Plus I think ours turned out great. Our beer is all about being really
simple, approachable, and drinkable, and we wanted our packaging to reflect that.
It’s really simple and toned down and elegant. What’s more elegant than a
tuxedo? It’s so easy to over-design something, and every kind of hop pun
has just been done to death. A lot of other breweries will make you guess
what’s in the can or bottle. With us, you know exactly what kind of beer you’re
grabbing; it’s right there on the can.
You are one of few breweries in the area to offer your beer for to-go sales, including kegs. Have your customers responded to this option?
Yeah, definitely.
We sell beer every day. Bottles, cans, and kegs too. It’s a hard license to do
because you have to have a trifecta: City Council approval, light industrial
zoning to brew beer, and then you have to have a retail overlay to be able to
retail. That doesn’t happen often.
Do you have any new beers on the horizon?
Yeah actually, next
week we’re going to brew a Honey Porter. We are also going to re-release a lot
of our 1st year success stories like the Winter Stout, the Chocolate Rum Stout,
the Cream Ale and others.
Congratulations to Shannon Carter and his crew at Shannon Brewing for making it through their first year on the DFW craft beer scene. Make sure to check out their facebook, twitter @ShannonBrewery, website, and of course stop by their tap room and beer garden if you're in Keller.
Saturday, August 29th is Shannon's First Anniversary Celebration from 11am to 6pm with all kinds of eats, treats, and of course some great Shannon beer! Tickets are $15 online and $18 at the door.
Thanks again to Shannon Carter for taking time out of his busy schedule to talk with this lowly homebrewer. We'll see you at Operation Bravo!